James Dean

. Film actor in 1950s; star of hit Hollywood film Rebel Without A Cause

. Known for being rough-edged and rebellious on screen and in real life

. His popularity in the 1950s proved rising popularity of youth rebellion, which helped speed rise of rock and roll music

. His T-shirt and jeans style became a fashion staple for young men in the 1950s and beyond

Christian Dior

. French fashion designer who rose to popularity in the late 1940s

. His "New Look" with narrow shoulders, little waist, emphasized bust, and long, wide skirt became his signature style

. One of the first designers to excite national media, which featured his styles in front-page articles

. Died in 1957 but his company is still a major fashion establishment

Paul Poiret

. Popular designer in the pre-World War I period

. Best known for his pencil skirt design

. Offered an alternative to the constricting corset

. Used fox fur, pearls, multicolored feathers and other elaborate embellishments

. His popularity declined after World War I and lost his fortune and his business in the Great Depression

Clara Lemlich Shavelson

. Labor organizer for shirtwaist workers in early 20^th century New York

. Jewish immigrant; drew women garment workers into the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union

. Helped found Wage Earner's League for Woman Suffrage

. Became member of Communist Party in the 1920s and in the 1950s called to testify before the House Committee on Un-American Activities

Brooke Shields

. Actress and model

. Most famous for her starring role in the very successful Calvin Klein jeans ad campaign from 1980 to 1982

. Was only 16 at time she appeared in sexy CK commercials, which were banned from several NY television stations

Levi Strauss

. Entrepreneur who sold supplies in San Francisco during the California Gold Rush

. Created first denim blue jeans in 1873 to cater to working men who needed durable clothing

. His name has become synonymous with blue jeans

André Leon Talley

. Editor of Vogue magazine and major African-American figure in the fashion industry

. Proponent of well-groomed looks of the 1950s and the 1960s

. Has said that small number of black models on Vogue covers reflects "the culture we live in"

EVENTS

1793 Invention of Cotton Gin

. Invented by Eli Whitney while working on a Georgia plantation

. Made cotton cultivation faster and cheaper by efficiently removing seeds from cotton

. Prompted the cotton boom of the 19^th century and led to a renewed dependence on slavery in the American South

. One of most important inventions in history of American fashion

1873 Levi Strauss Denim Jeans

. Strauss created denim jeans to cater to California miners who needed tough garments for manual labor

. Early slogan for Levi's company was "For Men Who Toil"

. Featured copper rivets to secure pockets

. Levi's jeans became popular among the mass population, especially young people, in the 1950s

1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Fire

. Fire spread rapidly through New York garment sweatshop

. Workers had been locked inside the factory by the owners in order to prevent theft

. Only one small fire escape was not big enough to allow many to escape

. Many jumped to their death, others burned alive; 146 died, mostly young girls

. Unions used the disaster to argue that working conditions in clothing factories should be improved

1943 Zoot Suit Riots

. Weeklong race riot in Los Angeles, triggered by sensational reports of gang violence and the "zoot-suiter menace"

. U.S. servicemen, police, and civilians attacked those wearing zoot suits

. Most of those attacked were Mexican-American men, but some women, blacks and Filipinos also targeted

. Ended when California's Attorney General and Governor established a curfew, blocked entrance into the city, and banned the zoot suit

1994 NAFTA

. North American Free Trade Agreement went into effect 1 January

. Agreement created a free-trade zone spanning Canada, the U.S., and Mexico

GROUPS

International Ladies Garment Workers Union

. First chartered in New York City, 1909

. Struck for better wages, safer working conditions, a 52-hour workweek, and an end to worker exploitation

. Inspired most NY undergarment workers to become union members

World Trade Organization

. A global trade group

. In 1999, U.S. wanted to get China to join in order to reign the growth of its textile industry

CONCEPTS

Corset

. Undergarment was a staple of fashion during the 18^th and 19^th centuries

. Originally referred to as "stays"

. Usually consisted of two halves laced up in the front and the back, layered with whalebone to stiffen and strengthen the garment

. Used to shape woman's upper body, shrink the waist and enhance the cleavage

Fustian

. Fabric made from cotton, linen, and wool

. Later became known as "jean" after the sailors from Genoa, Italy who wore it

. By the 18^th century it was made entirely of cotton

. Valued for its durability, usually dyed with Indigo blue, a pigment extracted from plants in the Americas and India

Waistcoat

. Sleeveless and collarless vest

. Mainly used by men in England and colonial America

. Worn over shirts but under jackets

. Replaced the tight red leather doublet that was popular around 1700

Zoot Suit

. Style popular among black and Latino youth in the 1930s and 1940s

. Characterized by high-waisted, loose-fitting pants, a long wide-shouldered coat, and a wide-rimmed felt hat

. The 1940s press associated the style with youth crime

PLACES

Los Angeles, California

. Site of 1943 Zoot Suit Riots, racial violence triggered by white Americans' anger at Chicano and black youths wearing outlandish zoot suits during wartime

Paris, France

. Epicenter of worldwide fashion industry

Triangle Shirtwaist Factory, New York City

. Overcrowded garment sweatshop

. Site of tragic 1911 fire that killed many workers, mostly young girls