Who do you care about? Your customers? If so, maybe they appreciate you. Maybe you can derive some sense of personal glory from fitting the perfect wine with a seafood dinner, and providing a customer with the dining experience of a lifetime. Depending on the quality (and of course price) of the restaurant, they might even remember the meal forever.
But let's be honest—a dining experience is just that...a single experience. You don't take it with you—well, maybe just for a few hours. At least the taste of some of those wines really is straight-up glorious. Mmm, that tartare the chef does after hours, with that tart little '08 Prager Grüner Veltliner Hinter der Berg? "Ich hab' dich lieb!"
But that's about it. It's not a glory-filled gig.