Hamlet's Costume Changes

Early on in the play, we learn that Hamlet wears an all black get-up that seems to be getting on his mom's nerves. But why? Well, Hamlet wears an "inky cloak" because he's in mourning for his dead father, who hasn't been gone for very long. But, Hamlet's the only one in the royal court who's still upset. His mother married Claudius about two seconds after Old Hamlet died and now that Claudius is king, the happy couple wants everyone to forget about Old Hamlet. So, Hamlet's black attire sets him apart from everyone else – just like his grief makes him an outsider in the cheerful court. (When the play's staged, Hamlet's black clothing really stands out, especially when the director positions him off to the side of stage while the rest of the court is in the center.)

But don't tell Hamlet that his clothes reflect his grief – he might jump down your throat, as he does here when his mom asks him why he "seems" so sad:

'Tis not alone my inky cloak, good mother,
Nor customary suits of solemn black,
Nor windy suspiration of forced breath,
No, nor the fruitful river in the eye,
Nor the dejected 'havior of the visage,
Together with all forms, moods, shapes of grief,
That can denote me truly (1.2.4)

In other words, Hamlet objects to the idea that any outward signs (dress, behavior, etc.) can truly "denote" what he's feeling on the inside (which is rotten). Hamlet's "suits of solemn black," he says, can't even begin to express his grief and anguish.

Later on, however, Hamlet changes his tune about what it is that clothing or costume can "denote." After he decides to play the role of an "antic" or madman, he adjusts his costume accordingly. Check out Ophelia's description of Hamlet:

My lord, as I was sewing in my closet,
Lord Hamlet, with his doublet all unbraced;
No hat upon his head; his stockings foul'd,
Ungarter'd, and down-gyved to his ancle;
Pale as his shirt; his knees knocking each other;
And with a look so piteous in purport
As if he had been loosed out of hell
To speak of horrors,--he comes before me. (2.1.1)

If we assume that Hamlet makes himself appear disheveled in order to convince Ophelia that he's lost his mind, then we can also assume that Hamlet is banking on the convention that one's physical attire is a reflection of one's state of mind. And it works because Ophelia and Polonius are convinced that Hamlet is mad. Notice too that Hamlet's not wearing his favorite black cloak – Ophelia says his skin's as "pale as his shirt." Hmm. Ophelia makes Hamlet sound a lot like the ghost. What's that all about? Be sure to check out the themes of "Art and Culture" and "Madness" if you want to think about this some more.